After my earlier speedboat ride to Luang Prabang, I was anxious about the fast boat to Phnom Penh, which the Lonely Planet describes as cramped and unpleasant. It was neither, and the scenery, though not rugged, was virtually an unending string of picturesque boats and waving families with children - at least on the Tonle Sap River. The dock scene on the Tonle Sap was fairly impressive: a madhouse set in the midst of a floating town. And in the thick of the crowds, little girls with straw hampers of baguettes and Laughing Cow cheese for sale - this was a French colony too, after all.


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