

I killed a day in Bangkok shopping for new shoes. I left the old ones
in the shop after getting a replacement for $15. They'd been stitched
back together several weeks before by a feuding odd-couple of
shoeshiners in an Indian railway station. The first guy had
communicated his desire to fix my bag's zipper for 50 rupees and,
since I didn't have correct change, begged to stitch my shoes together
to get a whole 100 rupees ($2.50) instead of my making change for half
that. But the other shoeshine wouldn't allow him to have all the day's
business, and they started yanking and pulling the shoe apart, each
trying to claim the job for himself as I contemplated a shoeless
immediate future. Somehow they resolved their dispute and
I walked away fully shod - but stitched or not the shoes were still
shot, and I didn't want to be in Japan looking like a bum.
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