Another night aboard the train, followed by a harrowing motorcycle ride in Ahmedabad and a long bus ride into Rajastan, I arrived at last in Udaipur, the romantic city with its Lake Palace set on an island. Due to several years of dry weather, the lake is mainly dry, so the 5-star Lake Palace hotel now hosts a concert and mock maharaja's parade complete with elephants as a substitute for their standby boat tours.


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