Arriving in Istanbul's tourist district, called Sultanahmet, the first stop is generally the cash machines located at this prime spot directly between the two greatest sights in Istanbul: the Hagia Sophia of Justinian (shown here) and the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque. Although the place appears friendly enough in the photograph, it is actually more of a battleground between tourists on one hand and extremely friendly men pushing carpets, leather, shoe-shines, alcohol, and "anything else money can buy." I was offered all of these. I succumbed to the carpet and the shoe-shine.

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