Varying my planned itinerary, I hired a driver to take me to Chittor
fort, the brave and tragic forerunner of Udaipur. I tried hard to
befriend my driver, Ahmed, and he talked quite a lot - he seemed to be
quite a supporter of the BJP from what I could understand, and he
didn't like the idea that Indian-heritage people in the U.S. got
married at such an old age.
Mostly I was hoping he'd help me find some good, cheap samosas. He was
evidently good friends with this fellow whose stall we stopped at in a
tiny but crowded village halfway to Chittor. Not only were the samosas
good, but it was a solid 10 minutes of chatting in the street before
word got around town and the beggars showed up. Breakfast and tea for
two cost 20 rupees ($0.45).
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